Flea Control in Nashville & Mt. Juliet: What Every Pet Owner Should Know

I know, it’s awful. One day everything’s fine, your dog’s happy, and then suddenly they’re scratching like crazy and you’ve got bites all over your ankles. And if you’ve tried dealing with fleas before, you already know they’re about as stubborn as they come.

I’ve been running Armor Termite and Pest Control here in Mt. Juliet for over 6 years now, and I’ve probably seen every flea situation you can imagine. The lady with three cats who thought she was going crazy. The family that spent hundreds on stuff from Walmart that didn’t work. The guy who found out he had raccoons living in his attic (turns out they’re the ones that brought the fleas).

Here’s what I’ve learned: most people make the same mistakes because nobody explains how fleas actually work. So let me break it down for you, the real deal, not the marketing fluff.

What You’re Actually Dealing With

First thing to know: that flea on your dog? It’s probably a cat flea. I know, doesn’t make sense, but cat fleas will bite anything. Dogs, cats, you, me. They’re not picky.

These things are tiny. About 1/16 inch. Reddish brown. Bodies are flat from the sides so they can slip through fur easy. And man, can they jump. Like 200 times their own height. That’s like you jumping over a skyscraper. Which is why they have no problem getting from the grass onto your dog’s leg, or onto your socks while you’re making coffee.

Why This Is More Than Just Annoying

People sometimes call me and say, “They’re just fleas, right? How bad can it be?”

Bad. It can be really bad.

Your pets are miserable. Constant itching, hair falling out, some dogs get these allergic reactions that need steroids. The bites hurt. They’re itchy. For some people, it’s unbearable.

And here’s the thing nobody thinks about: fleas carry tapeworms. Both dogs and cats can get them. Kids can too if they accidentally swallow a flea (gross, but it happens with little ones). I’ve had customers whose vet bills were more than what they spent on pest control.

If you’ve got a puppy or kitten with a bad infestation, they can actually become anemic from blood loss. These little vampires feed constantly.

The sooner you deal with this, the better. Trust me on that.

Okay, this is where people usually mess up. You can’t just spray something and call it done. You’re not fighting one pest. You’re fighting four different life stages at the same time.

Eggs Everywhere

When a female flea bites your dog, she’s laying eggs. Like 40 to 50 eggs every single day. These eggs don’t stick to your pet. They fall off. Onto your carpet, your couch, your bed, wherever your dog hangs out.

Most of the flea problem is NOT on your pet. It’s in your house.

Larvae in Your Carpet

In about two weeks, those eggs hatch. Little worm things that burrow way down into your carpet where you can’t see them.

Want to know what they eat? Flea poop.

Yeah. Adult fleas poop out blood (partially digested), and it falls off your pet just like the eggs. You know those little black specks in your dog’s fur that look like pepper? That’s it. Put it on a wet paper towel and it’ll turn reddish. That’s blood. And that’s what baby fleas are eating in your carpet right now.

The Cocoon Problem

After the larvae grow up, they spin this cocoon. And this is where it gets really frustrating.

That cocoon is like a bomb shelter. Water won’t penetrate it. Insecticide won’t penetrate it. The flea inside can just wait. For weeks. Sometimes months.

It’s sitting there waiting for the right signal. Vibration, heat, pressure. That tells it “hey, food is here.” Then it pops out.

This is why people think their treatment didn’t work. They treated everything, and three weeks later there’s fleas everywhere. But those are just the ones emerging from cocoons that were already there. You can’t kill what’s in the cocoon. You just have to wait them out.

Adults Are The Biters

Once they emerge, adult fleas immediately start looking for something to bite. When they find your pet, they start feeding within minutes. Within a day, they’re mating and laying more eggs.

One female can lay hundreds of eggs in her lifetime. Hundreds.

Your pet’s scratching way more than normal. Especially around the neck, base of the tail, belly.

Those dark specks I mentioned. In the fur, on pet bedding.

Red irritated skin. Hair loss.

You’re getting bitten on your ankles and lower legs. Fleas don’t fly. They jump up from the floor.

You actually see fleas jumping on the carpet. Your dog or cat is grooming constantly, biting at their skin. If you’re seeing this stuff, don’t wait. The longer you wait, the worse it gets. Exponentially worse.

Professional Tip: Test the area around your dog sleep area by laying a WHITE TOWL OR SHEET.    Thise same tactic works on a lawn as well to make the Flea’s easier to spot!!!

What Actually Works (And What Doesn’t)

Alright, real talk. There’s no magic bullet. Anyone who tells you there is, they’re lying or they don’t know what they’re talking about.

What works is hitting this from multiple angles at the same time.

You HAVE to Treat the Pet

90% of adult fleas are on your pet. Not in your carpet. On Your Pet.

This is why the old way of just bombing the house never worked. If you don’t treat the animal, you’re done before you start.

The ones vets recommend around here:

Pills (chewables):

• Simparica, NexGard. These are what I see most often, given monthly
• Bravecto. This one lasts three months, which is great if you’re forgetful Comfortis, Trifexis

These work through the bloodstream. Flea bites, gets poisoned, dies. Usually within 24 hours.

Spot on treatments (liquid between the shoulder blades):

• Frontline Plus
• Advantage II
• Revolution
• Vectra

You put it on once a month. Spreads across the skin, kills on contact.

Why these are so much better: fleas die before they can lay eggs. No eggs means the cycle stops. Keep your pets on this year round and new infestations can’t get started.

Listen to me on this:

Never use dog stuff on cats. Some of it will kill your cat. I’m not exaggerating. Permethrin is in some dog products and it’s toxic to cats.

Talk to your vet before treating puppies, kittens, pregnant pets.

Every pet in your house needs treatment. Don’t skip the outdoor cat or the dog that “doesn’t seem to have fleas.” They all need it.

Don’t skip doses in winter. Our winters aren’t cold enough to kill fleas in a heated house.

Vacuum. A Lot.

I know this sounds too simple. But vacuuming is one of your best weapons.

It sucks up eggs and larvae (about 60% of eggs, 27% of larvae based on studies). Takes away the flea dirt they eat. Forces adults out of those cocoons so they’re exposed. Fluffs carpet so treatments can penetrate better.

Do it right:

• Everywhere your pet goes
• Edges, under furniture, under cushions
• Twice a week minimum during an infestation
• Take that bag outside immediately and throw it in a sealed trash bag

Don’t let it sit in the house. You’ll just have fleas hatching in your vacuum cleaner.

If you’ve got a bagless one, empty it into a plastic bag, seal it up, take it outside right away.

Your pet’s scratching way more than normal. Especially around the neck, base of the tail, belly.

Those dark specks I mentioned. In the fur, on pet bedding. Red irritated skin. Hair loss.

You’re getting bitten on your ankles and lower legs. Fleas don’t fly. They jump up from the floor.

You actually see fleas jumping on the carpet. Your dog or cat is grooming constantly, biting at their skin. If you’re seeing this stuff, don’t wait. The longer you wait, the worse it gets. Exponentially worse.

Professional Tip: Test the area around your dog sleep area by laying a WHITE TOWL OR SHEET.    Thise same tactic works on a lawn as well to make the Flea’s easier to spot!!!

What Actually Works (And What Doesn’t)

Alright, real talk. There’s no magic bullet. Anyone who tells you there is, they’re lying or they don’t know what they’re talking about.

What works is hitting this from multiple angles at the same time.

You HAVE to Treat the Pet

90% of adult fleas are on your pet. Not in your carpet. On Your Pet.   This is why the old way of just bombing the house never worked. If you don’t treat the animal, you’re done before you start.

The ones vets recommend around here:

Pills (chewables):   Simparica, NexGard. These are what I see most often, given monthly  Bravecto. This one lasts three months, which is great if you’re forgetful   Comfortis, Trifexis

These work through the bloodstream. Flea bites, gets poisoned, dies. Usually within 24 hours.

Spot on treatments (liquid between the shoulder blades):    Frontline Plus,  Advantage II,  Revolution, Vectra

You put it on once a month. Spreads across the skin, kills on contact.

Why these are so much better: fleas die before they can lay eggs. No eggs means the cycle stops. Keep your pets on this year round and new infestations can’t get started.

Listen to me on this:

Never use dog stuff on cats. Some of it will kill your cat. I’m not exaggerating. Permethrin is in some dog products and it’s toxic to cats.

Talk to your vet before treating puppies, kittens, pregnant pets.

Every pet in your house needs treatment. Don’t skip the outdoor cat or the dog that “doesn’t seem to have fleas.” They all need it.

Don’t skip doses in winter. Our winters aren’t cold enough to kill fleas in a heated house.

Vacuum. A Lot.

I know this sounds too simple. But vacuuming is one of your best weapons.

It sucks up eggs and larvae (about 60% of eggs, 27% of larvae based on studies). Takes away the flea dirt they eat. Forces adults out of those cocoons so they’re exposed. Fluffs carpet so treatments can penetrate better.

Do it right:

• Everywhere your pet goes
• Edges, under furniture, under cushions
• Twice a week minimum during an infestation
• Take that bag outside immediately and throw it in a sealed trash bag

Don’t let it sit in the house. You’ll just have fleas hatching in your vacuum cleaner.

If you’ve got a bagless one, empty it into a plastic bag, seal it up, take it outside right away.

Look, not every flea problem needs us to come out. If you caught it super early and your pets are on good preventatives, you might beat it with just vacuuming and pet treatments.

But if you’re getting bitten, if your pets are miserable, if you’ve been fighting this for weeks? That’s when it makes sense to call.

Before we come out, here’s what you need to do:

Clear the floors. Pick up toys, clothes, everything. We need access to all the spots fleas hide.

Wash all pet bedding in hot water. Or toss it if it’s cheap.

Cover fish tanks and turn off the aerators.

Take out pet food and water bowls.

Plan to be out of the house for a few hours.

What we focus on:

We don’t just spray the whole house randomly. We go where fleas actually live:

• Carpets and rugs, especially where your pet hangs out
• Under and behind furniture
• Along baseboards
• Under couch cushions where your cat sleeps
• Cracks and crevices

We use professional grade products that combine stuff that kills adult fleas fast with insect growth regulators that stop eggs and larvae from developing.

After we treat:

Stay out until everything’s dry. Usually 2 to 4 hours. Keep vacuuming twice a week.

You’ll still see some fleas for 2 to 4 weeks. This is normal! They’re emerging from those cocoons we talked about. Don’t panic and call us to come back and retreat immediately. Give it time.

One thing we absolutely don’t recommend: Bug bombs.

I can’t tell you how many times someone calls us after trying foggers from the hardware store. Those things spray up into the air, but fleas live down in the carpet. Plus, they’re actually dangerous if you don’t use them right. Save your money.

your yard first:

Put on white crew socks pulled up to your knees. Walk around your yard, especially shady spots. If you’ve got fleas, you’ll see them jump onto the white socks. If you don’t see any, you probably don’t need to treat outside.

If you do need to treat, we focus on:

Shaded areas where your dog rests,  Under decks and porches,  Along fence lines  or                             Near the doghouse or kennel

We don’t spray the whole yard. Fleas can’t survive in open sun. They dry out and die. We’re targeting the shady spots where they actually live.

Yard maintenance helps a ton:

Keep your grass mowed. Sunlight kills flea larvae.  Trim back shrubs near where pets hang out.

Rake up leaves and debris.  Don’t pile wood or junk near the house.

Keep Wildlife Out

This one surprise people. See, opossums, raccoons, and skunks are all covered in fleas. If they’re hanging around your property, getting under the deck, nesting in your crawl space, eating cat food you leave out, they’re basically flea delivery trucks.

What you can do:

Seal up crawl spaces and entry points under your home.

Get a chimney cap if you don’t have one.

Don’t leave pet food outside overnight. Seriously, bring it in.

Use trash cans with tight lids.

Remove brush piles and wood stacks near your house.

Keeping Fleas Away for Good (Prevention Is Everything)

Once you’ve beat the fleas, the last thing you want is to go through that nightmare again. Here’s your checklist:

Keep every single pet on monthly flea preventative. No exceptions, no “just in summer.”  Vacuum pet areas twice a week.  Wash pet bedding in hot water every week.  Brush your pets regularly with a flea comb.  Keep grass mowed and shrubs trimmed.  Inspect your pets after they visit the groomer, kennel, or dog park.  Seal up entry points where wildlife could nest.  Don’t skip treatments in winter. Our houses stay warm, and fleas don’t care what month it is.  The key is consistency. I see it all the time: people get rid of fleas, stop the preventative treatments, and three months later they’re back where they started.

Look, I’m not going to tell you that you can’t handle fleas yourself. Some people do. But here’s what we see: most homeowners spend more money and time on failed DIY attempts than they would’ve spent just calling us in the first place.

Here’s what we bring:

We’ve been doing this for over 6 years in Mt. Juliet and Nashville. We know Middle Tennessee fleas. Which products work here, which don’t, what mistakes people make.

We don’t just spray and leave. We figure out where the fleas are coming from (sometimes it’s raccoons in the attic you didn’t even know about), treat every life stage, check back to make sure it worked, and teach you how to prevent it from happening again.

Our products are professional grade EPA approved chemicals that are safe for your family and pets when used correctly but much more effective than what you can buy at the store.

And honestly? We guarantee our work. If fleas come back, so do we.

What to Expect: The Real Timeline

One of the biggest frustrations I hear is, “We treated for fleas but I’m still seeing them!” Here’s the thing. That’s completely normal. Let me walk you through what actually happens:

Week 1:

You’ll see fewer adult fleas biting right away. But you’ll probably still see some fleas jumping around. Don’t freak out. Those are newly emerged adults from cocoons that were already there before treatment.

Weeks 2 to 4:

This is when people get nervous. More fleas are emerging from those protected cocoons. It can feel like it’s not working. But stick with it. Keep vacuuming, keep your pets on their preventatives, and be patient. The population is actually declining even if it doesn’t feel like it.

Weeks 4 to 8:

You should be seeing way fewer fleas now. The life cycle is broken. New eggs aren’t being laid, and the cocoons are running out. This is where you shift focus to prevention so you never have to do this again.

Important: Seeing fleas for several weeks after treatment is normal and expected. That protective cocoon stage means adults will keep emerging for a while. Do NOT rush out and retreat everything immediately. Give the process time to work. Most failed flea treatments happen because people panicked and retreated too soon, which just exposes their pets to more chemicals unnecessarily.

Every so often, we get a call from someone who’s getting bitten by fleas but doesn’t have any pets. First reaction is usually, “How is this even possible?”

The source is almost always wildlife:

Raccoons or opossums nesting in your attic or crawl space , Squirrels in your chimney,    A stray or feral cat hanging around your property, or  Previous owner’s pets. Flea pupae can sit dormant in carpet for months waiting for you to move in

We had a customer in Hermitage who was convinced she was losing her mind. Bites everywhere, no pets, house was clean. Turns out a family of raccoons had been living in her attic for months. We removed the raccoons, sealed the entry points, treated for fleas, and problem solved.

Let’s Clear Up Some Flea Myths

I hear these all the time, and they drive me crazy because they waste people’s time and money:

“I only need to treat my dog.”

Nope. Only about 5% of a flea infestation is adult fleas on your pet. The other 95% is eggs, larvae, and pupae in your environment. You have to treat both or you’re wasting your time.

“Bug bombs will kill fleas.”

Bug bombs spray up into the air. Fleas live down in the carpet. It’s like trying to put out a basement fire by spraying water on the roof. Plus, those foggers can be dangerous if you don’t evacuate properly.

“Fleas die off in winter.”

Maybe in Alaska. Not in Tennessee. Your house stays 70 degrees all winter. Fleas don’t care what the calendar says.

“Essential oils work just as well as pesticides.”

Look, I love that people want natural solutions. But there’s no scientific evidence that essential oils control fleas effectively. If your dog is getting eaten alive, don’t rely on peppermint oil to save the day.

“I can use my dog’s flea medicine on my cat.”

1. Some ingredients that are safe for dogs (like permethrin) will literally kill your cat. Never, ever do this. I’ve seen it go very badly.

Come out and inspect your property thoroughly.

Help you understand where the fleas are coming from.

Treat your home with professional grade products.

Give you a clear prevention plan.

Follow up to make sure it worked.

Stand behind our work with a guarantee.

Don’t spend another month fighting this on your own. Give us a call, and let’s get your home back to normal.

Same-Day Service in Mt. Juliet: We know fleas can’t wait. In Mt. Juliet (and Hermitage), we even offer same-day or next-day appointments to quickly relieve your home of pests.

Call Armor Termite and Pest Control: 615-295-9958
Visit: https://armortermite.com

We serve Mt. Juliet, Nashville, Hermitage, Lebanon, and all of Middle Tennessee.

About Armor Termite and Pest Control

We’re a veteran owned pest control company that’s been serving Mt. Juliet and the Nashville area since we opened our doors. What makes us different? We actually live here. We’re your neighbors. When you call, you’re talking to someone who knows Middle Tennessee. The climate, the pests, the challenges. We specialize in flea control, termite treatments, ant control, tick prevention, and pretty much any pest problem you can throw at us. Our technicians are licensed, experienced, and equipped with the latest EPA approved products and integrated pest management techniques.

More Resources:

• Fire Ant Control in Mt. Juliet
• Kitchen Ant Prevention

Other Services We Offer:

• Termite treatments
• Ant control (carpenter ants, fire ants, odorous house ants)
• Tick control and prevention
• Wasp and yellow jacket removal
• Mosquito control
• Rodent exclusion and control